Wednesday, September 14, 2011

St Petersburg (aka Leningrad) Russia


Sunday 29th and Monday 30th St Petersburg

Since a visa is required to visit Russia, we take the ship’s city overview, with free time and the Hermitage museum tour. St Petersburg is a beautiful city, built along the Neva River with 66 canals and 300 bridges. Peter the Great built the city in 1703 and hired French and Italian designers to give the city a very un-Russian appearance. All the buildings are in stone and have majestic columns with grand stone carved facades. It is probably one of Europe's most artistic and beautifully built cities

In the free time we buy a few souvenirs and eat a nice Russian lunch (Borski soup, pork schnitzel and Hebckoe beer). We also visit the cathedral of Our Lady of Kazan (she is reputed to have miraculous powers) with a grand interior. To the Winter Palace and the Hermitage Russia’s premier collection of art (over 60, 000 exhibits). We spent two hours walking through about six of the more renowned galleries – Rembrandt, Leonardo da Vinci (a beautiful Madonna and child), Raphael, Spanish and Italian painting and 14 sections of French impressionists. The sensory input is stunning but overwhelming. To really appreciate this museum, one has to see it like we see the Metropolitan in NY, a few galleries at a time and again and again. Not only has the Hermitage spectacular paintings, but the rooms themselves are works of art with lavishly painted and decorated ceilings and walls

In the evening we attend a Russian folklore dancing and singing – heady stuff with an army choir and soloists and about 16 young men and women cavorting in rigorous Russian, Cossack and gypsy dances. The men particularly showed amazing leg and body strength, indulging in impossible gymnastic feats of athleticism

I spend the Monday in seeing the Cathedrals of St Petersburg. First we see the St Peter and Paul Cathedral, built by Peter the Great in the early 1700’s the official burial church of all the emperors of Russia. Then we visit the Church of the Spilled Blood (commemorating the assassination of Alexandria II who was canonized as a martyr) which has 7000 square meters of mosaic figures on its walls with alters of Iconostasis (an astounding sight that left me in open mouthed awe, muttering ‘My God’). It cannot be described and has to be seen to be believed .

Finally we visit St Isaacs Cathedral (relatively new 1818-58) a Greek orthodox church. It has innumerable columns of malachite and the entire surface and dome are covered in real gold (40 kilograms of gold - imagine the value at today’s $ 1800 an ounce – there being about 35 ounces to a Kilogram). The church was built and paid for by the Romanoff family, was badly damaged during the revolution and then restored at a cost of 17 million roubles ($ 5 million). An apocryphal story of Russians adopting a religion is they rejected being Muslim as it did not allow them to drink vodka; rejected Judaism as it would take too long to convert their people and the Greek orthodox was least intrusive (the names of Constantine and Nicholas are the remnants of the Greek connection)

St Petersburg was called Leningrad during the revolution, and had its name restored during perestroika. Many of the palaces and museums were also restored to their former glory instead of being used as barracks and hostels. I feel that the Russians were happy to have their city renamed and restored, but, other than the guides, we met none of the local people so cannot gauge their happiness. The guides seemed very pro new regime. St Petersburg is the most majestic and glamorous city that we have seen in Northern Europe. It also seems very affluent

An enjoyable evening show of trapeze and acrobatic performances by a young couple

Germany and Estonia


Thursday 25th Germany – Warnemunde and Rostock

We elect not to go to Berlin as it would have taken too much travel time, so instead we visit the local port town of Warnemunde and then take a train ride to Rostock. A good decision. Rostock is a wonderful medieval town with some very impressive buildings. We start with a visit to St Marien Kirche (St Mary’s Church) built in the 1550’s with a magnificent organ of 5700 pipes, a baptismal font from 1270 and an original Astronomical clock from 1472 that has a zodiac, an eternal calendar and a chime where the apostles rotate and are blessed by a central Jesus (which we hear and see at 12.00pm). There is also an incredible filigree tapestry of Mary’s life. We go on to see an impressive City Hall from 1270, St Nicholas church (now apartments) and St Pietri church. We end the day with a fischbroetchen sandwich and a Rostok beer.

The night’s entertainment is with four English violinists playing with incredible skill and with a lot of humor too

Friday 26th At sea

A day at sea - wonderful. Eat and drink whenever, with as much choice and variety as you could want. No picking up or cleaning. All the staff so polite, helpful and happy (they have been rigorously trained and it shows) and dozens of entertaining shows to choose from. No thinking, just being and enjoying. Ah that life could be one continuous cruise !

Saturday 27th Estonia – Tallinn

We tour this quaint walled city 1300 C on foot. We visit the Holy Ghost church 14C, the oldest church in Tallinn with a beautiful alter and nave; a 13C Town hall with a very high spire, St Nicholas 1350C (bombed and rebuilt) with beautiful medieval holy artifacts and a dance of death frieze painted by Bernt Norke; a very opulent Russian Cathedral and St Mary the Virgin 13C cathedral.

We end our excursion with a local beer having had a lovely day in a well preserved 13C town. One is overwhelmed by the profusion of impressive sculptures, monuments and statues and most of them religious (and Lutheran). The conversion from Catholic to Lutheran in these countries was amicable and so the catholic statues and other artifacts were retained

The night’s entertainment is a versatile instrument player – playing six different instruments

Monday, September 12, 2011

Copenhagen Denmark

Monday 22nd & Tuesday 23rd August – Denmark Wonderful Copenhagen (Kobenhavn)

We have an uneventful flight to Copenhagen and take a bus to our downtown hotel, a miniature room and bath, but very central. After a quick sleep we are picked up by our host Christian Hansen and make our way to Roskilde the site of the excavation of 8th Century Viking sailing ships. We are reinforced by a smorreboard (an open face sandwich made famous by the Danes) and a wheat lager. The Vikings had barbaric customs, like having a slave girl linked to the death ceremonies of a chief – she would be gang raped, decapitated and buried with the chief (and we thought suttee was outrageous). We then visit Roskilde cathedral (11C) the burial site of royalty, with a brick façade (no stonework, so different from the other European cathedrals).

Denmark has a population of 5 ½ million, and slaughter 22 million pigs (rearing 11 million for 6 months), so you can surmise that their bacon and ham are exported throughout the world. Christian tells me that a recent survey found them to be the happiest country in Europe (the world) and even thought they are taxed up to 70%, their benefits are incredible – university study is free, unemployment coverage is 4 years (they are thinking of reducing it to two) and of course medical is free and social security is handsome. But it is very expensive and an average family needs $ 100,000 to live comfortably. My question is what do the Danes do to maintain this standard of living and I never got that question satisfactorily answered. I wondered about this in Finland too.

We see other city sites – the #1 tourist attraction, the lovely Copenhagen mermaid (even though she is rather small); the Amelia Borg castle royal residence; the stock exchange with its spire of intricate dragon like tails; Parliament house and an imposing town hall.. This is a sophisticated city with elegant buildings decorated with beautiful stonework figures and arabesques. We finish the evening off in Tivoli gardens, a fun fare park with much to eat and drink.

We are up early next morning and out to Elsinore and the 16th C Kronberg castle of Hamlet fame (just to remind you that Hamlet was fiction and yet the castle's huge popularity is because Shakespeare associated the castle with him). The castle is authentic enough, controlling the straits of Denmark. The church is very impressive with a beautiful alabaster and marble alter. In the castle basement we see ‘Holger Danske’ (Ogier the Dane) a sleeping giant who will only awaken when Denmark is to be destroyed. On to the magnificent Fredericksborg Castle of Christian IV (1588 to 1648), with very ostentatious interior décor, and lots of gold in the church and the palace rooms. The church has a hundreds of coat of arms of every historical person, including Eisenhower and Churchill. Later in the evening we visit the 16C Marble Church and an 11C Our Saviors church with a distinct twisted spire. Denmark is Lutheran and Presbyterian, but has retained the saints and the Virgin Mary from pre reformation days

I make a presentation to the local chapter associated with operations and APICS on Supply Chain competitiveness. I enjoy meeting the professionals of a country and finding out how they run their businesses and their knowledge of manufacturing.

I am very impressed with the Danish culture - polite and gentle, but quietly confident . Hundreds ride on bicycles and they are very environment conscious (using a bicycle is a common form of transport in all the Baltic cities). I hope they will be able to retain their lifestyle in the coming decades of intense foreign competitiveness

Wednesday 24th Embarkation on Norwegian Sun for a 9 day Baltic cruise

The check in is remarkably efficient and smooth and within a half hour we are having a buffet lunch. We sail at 5.00 pm and I see the city lights, before settling down to a sumptuous meal of lobster tails and Heineken beer (we are now on a 9 day eating orgy!). It is a large ship with 2000 passengers and at least 1000 crew. I meet the chief chef, a Goan, and he promises to make us a special Xacuti meal. We end a long day with an incredible performance of a juggler – his ability to keep large numbers of pins, rings, and tennis racquets in the air while adopting numerous gymnastic postures is just mind boggling.

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Here we go again

We are taking a Baltic cruise from August 21st to Sept 2nd. We fly to Copenhagen today and after two days in Copenhagen (during which Blair will make an APICS presentation) we will board the Norwegian Sun and steam out! Our tour will cover: Wandemunde (the port of Berlin), Tallinn (Estonia), St Petersburg (Russia), Helsinki (Finland) and Stockholm (Sweden)

Had a bad experience by being scammed by Priceline who promised us two free days of hotel stay if we booked the cruise with them and then sent us a voucher for $ 140 for two nights (reduced by their fees of $ 60+) with which you can probably rent a closet in Copenhagen! I have complained to various websites and publications - probably nothing will happen - and I now discover that Priceline has innumerable complaints of deceptive practices and scams. Sad I always thought Priceline was a honorable company. Oh well small stuff but annoying (I have booked a hotel on the retail market)

We have been reading up on all the cities. We are taking ship tours to St Petersburg (need visas in Russia) and Stockholm (distances). We do not plan to visit Berlin (too far) and will manage the other cites by small local excursions. All very exciting. I am taking my laptop so will try and blog as we go

So till Copenhagen...


Thursday, November 4, 2010

To England for a Wedding


We fly from Kolkata to Delhi to London and finally to Manchester, all in the same day, as we keep gaining time. Rent a car in Manchester and are met by two young friends, Maryanne and John Summerton and spend the night at their place. The next day we motor up to the Ribble Valley an extraordinary picturesque part of North Lancashire where our son Julian is to be married to Julie a Scottish girl living in England. Both are in the TV business, she as a sports event manager and he as a cameraman and editor. The met at Beijing and have done many sporting events together - Vancouver, South Africa and even the Delhi Commonwealth games.

The next few days are a whirl, with us meeting our Julie's parents and family. Spend every evening in some local pub, sampling the ales and lagers and eating pub grub. The wedding is on the 23rd Saturday in a small historic church, followed by a reception tea a local manor house, then dinner in three large modern tents and dancing in a glass house to a soul band. Every part of the wedding is choreographed carefully and exquisitely (mostly by Julie) and moves along without a flaw, with over 150 friends drinking, dancing and having a wonderful time. I leave when the party shuts down at 1.00am. I am quite pensive at the wedding, despite having a terrific time. Am reminded of the tradition of the Tu Ja Chinese community, that wedding are preceded by 15 days or crying. Ah well, I guess I am just getting old. The couple suggest that instead of presents, the guests give a donation to CTR our charity helping the less fortunate in India. - a lovely gesture.

We motor down to London the next day and leave for the USA on Monday. It is so good to be back home after being around the world in 60 days (beat Jules Verne by 20). Till our next excursion, stay well and take care.

Friday, October 15, 2010

Oh Calcutta !

We arrive in Kolkata, via Mumbai, and find the airports much improved and clean (phenol odor) The formalities are minimal and sensible (nowhere as paranoid as in the US or UK). An example is carrying water through security - they asked me to take a sip the allowed the bottle through.


I leave the Kolata airport and am shocked - the contrast with the countries we have just visited cannot be greater. A cacophony of auto horns being blasted; unbelievable dirt; stark poverty; garbage everywhere; every sense - ears, eyes, nose, throat, and touch is assaulted - and it is continuous.

We stay with a very old friend Phyllis Jones and visit with many friends and renew old acquaintances. This is the compensation to the external squalor; genuine caring personal relationships (something we miss in North America). I am embarrassed to have to make the sort of observations above, but if I shied away from writing unpleasant observations, then I should not blog! I also visit our charity's administrators and Loreto Entally convent, where we support the education of about 60 girls


India is one of the fastest growing countries and has created huge wealth for many of its citizens. It has however failed to alleviate the poverty of common man (estimated to r. ange from 60% to 70% of the population). The middle class seem to be indifferent to the plight of the less fortunate, living either in self contained communities (with internal supply of water, electricity etc) or in comfortable apartments (far from the starving masses). I have said this before and I repeat - one of the ways in which poverty can be reduced is if the middle class Indian gets more involved in helping the poor - even if each of them help a few. Indians are great intellects, excel in conceptual thinking and are articulate and argumentative to a fault, but they seem to fall short of doing for others. It is possible that the religion of Hinduism encourages individualism over community - there being no plus for helping others? I check this last thought with a learned friend Nagarajan and he assures me this is not so. How then do we explain the relative indifference of the middle class (and upper class) to their very poor brethren (estimated at 60% of the 1.2 billion!). Can someone give me an answer!

Thursday, October 7, 2010

In Singapore, just hanging aroound

Having a lovely relaxed time. Singapore is a hot and humid island, like Hong Kong, with a lot more greenery and more natives (80% Singaporeans, 14% Malays and 6%Indians) speaking English. I blogged it last year so will not say too much about Singapore itself

I have noticed that in the last month our travels, we have not seen the dominant white skin. The Chinese have skin colors from a pale yellow to a dark tan; Hong Kong is very multi-racial with brown skin predominant; Western Australia is also quite multi-racial, and, with us attending Anglo-Indian functions, the predominant skin color was again brown; and in Singapore we are again in a tan colored world. All four countries have smart, hard working people; all the countries are very prosperous and getting more so, and all are very clean and efficient. When I compare them with USA, I have to feel we are not at their level of cleanliness or efficiency. We in the USA have a better quality of life because we have more facilities and have had a head start of at least 40 to 50 years. Our size is another advantage as we are a huge market and the world fights get our trade (as is happening in China). Having said this, I cannot see how these countries will not develop and overtake us. The chief advantage of the USA, others than those mentioned, may be its innovation, its lack of limiting traditions (we continuously destroy and recreate) and having a meritocracy. It appears that these countries are ruled by a government plutocracy (selected and nurtured from a very young age), who do all the thinking for its people (who are told what to do and are these rules are rigidly enforced). Considering their success, this is not necessarily a bad approach (not withstanding the one vote per person democracy of Western countries, only a very few make all the decisions). What is more important is that there is equal opportunity for all, and I am assured that this exists in all these countries (as it does in the USA). So the question remains, will these Asian tigers overtake and subjugate the Western countries?
My view is they will because for the most part, we in the USA do not provide a good secondary education for our children (our education is a 'feel good' system, not a ' must learn' system) and we do not provide societal safeguards to teach our citizens to live within their means. This leaves us unable to compete and in debt! Ripe, low hanging fruit, ready to be plucked and eaten

As before, I indulge in a feast of eating - Singapore has some of most exotic and delicious foods anywhere. I eat Luksa a spicy, coconut based soup with cockles, cuttlefish, seafood and tofu; Hor Fun - large flat noodles in a brown sauce and seafood; Lor Mee - a heavy brown, garlic based duck stew and finally barbecued sting ray with sambal sauce. Most food is eaten in casual hawker type food courts - street food really - inexpensive filled with locals, who it seems never cook at home (why should they?) What a treat

Tomorrow we are off to India and Kolkata